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Feature Story

Port Arthur, Texas: American Sacrifice Zone
After decades of neglect, residents of the Gulf Coast’s most toxic public housing complex are preparing to get out. But in a city given over to oil refineries, is anywhere really safe?

This story was awarded a 2014 James Aronson Award for Social Justice Journalism. Judges honored it for exposing "how the oil industry wreaks havoc on the environment and health of a predominantly poor, African American community."

If you splinter off the interstate from Houston into the inky dark of the sloughs and bayous surrounding Texas State Highway 73, you will eventually emerge on the outskirts of Port Arthur and into the otherworldly light of one of the world’s largest oil refinery complexes. To the north and east is the 3,600-acre Motiva plant, a joint project of Shell Oil and Saudi Aramco; to the west is a 4,000-acre plant owned by Texas-based Valero. Together the two facilities refine more than 900,000 barrels of crude per day. Shrouded in billows of smoke and bathed in the radiance of round-the-clock floodlights and the molten glow of gas flares, their towers seem to rise on clouds of fire, suggesting a floating megalopolis that sprawls in all directions toward more refineries and petrochemical plants, toward the lighted cranes and petroleum coke conveyers that line the shipping channel, and away to hazardous waste incinerators and dump sites in the distance.

On one side of Terminal Road, the long, angling track that borders these facilities, is a chain-link fence and a berm made of buried pipelines that occasionally sprout from the hillside into aboveground shutoff valves and standpipes. Overhead, cameras placed atop a straight seam of street lamps provide a constant feed to guards in their nearby trucks, ever alert for signs of vandalism or trespass. On the other side of the road is West Port Arthur: an overwhelmingly African American community of churches, shotgun shacks, and several complexes of low-slung, barracks-like brick row houses—public (or public-assisted) housing meant for those who can’t afford to live anywhere else.

The oldest and closest of these complexes is Carver Terrace. In 1952, Port Arthur’s white town fathers took public housing dollars from Washington and erected these apartments directly on the refineries’ fence. They followed up soon thereafter by building two more projects. Within five years, roughly a third of West Port Arthur’s 1,500 households were in public housing, and there were only seven white families in the whole community. To this day, it remains roughly 95 percent African American. And as West Port Arthur’s enormous refineries have spewed forth benzene, carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide, and other pollutants—permitted or unpermitted—for more than six decades, the effects of these emissions, then, have been experienced disproportionately by African Americans.

Carver Terrace

Some local officials excuse the stench given off by those emissions as the smell of money, but the residents of Carver Terrace reap no economic rewards from the refineries. While the oil and gas industry accounted for almost 7 percent of new jobs created nationwide between 2005 and 2011, Port Arthur’s unemployment rate nearly doubled over that same span. Though it sits barely a hundred yards from some of the most profitable oil and gas complexes in the world, Carver Terrace is utterly cut off from any of the benefits they might yield. Residents of West Port Arthur—those who can find work—earn half what the average Texan makes. In the wee hours, when a shift ends at the refineries, taillights race up the highway toward Winnie or Nederland or other predominantly white suburbs, taking with them whatever prosperity these facilities confer locally.

But even worse than the economic inequity is the documented health effect on West Port Arthur residents, who have been regularly and repeatedly subjected to major emissions events—what the refining industry euphemistically terms “upsets.” I was drawn to Port Arthur, in part, by a video posted to YouTube by Hilton Kelley, a local environmental and community activist. It shows no fewer than eight enormous towers spewing huge flags of orange fire and thick, black smoke into the sky over West Port Arthur, the result of a brief outage at a sub-station owned by Entergy Texas, a local power provider. Without the benefit of an independent power grid or a sufficient backup system, the coking units at various refineries had powered down and filled with dangerous gas; to restart after a blackout event like that, these refineries had to “flare off” huge quantities of toxic emissions. As the refineries came back online, flaring for more than an hour, the sky turned murky, then dark. It looked like nightfall. But near the end of the video—which otherwise records only the calls of mourning doves and other songbirds—Kelley can be heard stating calmly: “April the 14th, 2013. Time now about 10:30 a.m.”

When I contacted him about coming to Port Arthur, Kelley told me that the event wasn’t unusual. Indeed, in the weeks before I visited in late June, a steady stream of incidents made the local news: a reserve oil tank was struck by lightning and the resulting fire spread, causing explosions and dotting the horizon with black plumes; a spill of fuel oil at the Motiva refinery caused an emissions release; a pair of unspecified events at Valero’s incinerators led to what the company called “excess carbon monoxide emissions.” (In mid-July, both Motiva and Valero announced partial shutdowns to address the problems.)

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s Toxics Release Inventory places Jefferson County among the very worst in the nation for air releases of chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders. In a state that regularly records in excess of 2,500 toxic emissions events per year, Port Arthur is near the top of the list of offending cities. Data collected by the Texas Cancer Registry indicates that cancer rates among African Americans in Jefferson County are roughly 15 percent higher than they are for the average Texan. Shockingly, the mortality rate from cancer is more than 40 percent higher. And cancer is only part of the story. A study by the University of Texas Medical Branch at Galveston found that residents of Port Arthur were four times more likely than people just 100 miles upwind to report suffering from heart and respiratory conditions; nervous system and skin disorders; headaches and muscle aches; and ear, nose, and throat ailments.

The reason is simple: this is where many Americans get their oil and gas. Yet despite Port Arthur’s importance to our fuel-dependent way of life, few people have ever heard of it. Of those who have, many know the city as little more than a name that gets repeated in countless articles about the Keystone XL pipeline. Should the final phase of the project be approved, Port Arthur will be the completed pipeline system’s terminus. The city’s refineries stand at the ready to turn 830,000 barrels per day of diluted, chemically treated bitumen into heavy diesel and petroleum coke—a dirtier alternative to coal.

Jefferson County, Texas, is among the very worst in the nation for air releases of chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.

Kelley has become a prominent figure in the anti-pipeline movement. He spoke at last February’s Forward on Climate Rally in Washington, D.C., and addressed the International Forum for a Sustainable Development at UNESCO headquarters in Paris in June. But he has also passionately urged politicians and activists to visit Port Arthur so they might see for themselves how this sliver of the Gulf Coast is suffering doubly as its legacy of pollution and toxic emissions combines with the effects of climate change, such as rising sea levels and increasingly powerful hurricanes.

According to Robert Bullard, a man considered by many to be the father of the environmental justice movement (and currently the dean of the Barbara Jordan–Mickey Leland School of Public Affairs at Texas Southern University, in Houston), the heavy concentration of African Americans in the shadow of the city’s refineries may be especially egregious, but it is hardly unique. In Texas, where 12 percent of the population is African American, people of color make up more than 66 percent of residents near the state’s most hazardous waste sites. When the focus is widened to consider the whole of the EPA’s Region 6—an area that includes Texas and all contiguous states—the numbers remain virtually the same.

In March of this year, however, the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) finally approved the Port Arthur Housing Authority’s plan to level Carver Terrace and relocate residents to a new complex to be built on the northern side of town, farther from the refineries. But after years of battling city hall for better housing, many of these residents now wonder if moving a mile or two away will be enough to restore their health. When it comes down to it, all of Port Arthur is a “fence-line community,” the term environmental justice advocates use to describe neighborhoods adjacent to hazardous facilities. Pressed up against the Louisiana state line, the city is downwind of nearly every coastal refinery in Texas, the last in a chain of cities making up a Beaumont-Orange-Port Arthur metropolitan area so crowded with industry that, from the air, it appears to burn yellow.

How far, the residents of Carver Terrace want to know, would they have to go before they could honestly feel as if they had escaped to something like safety?

Hilton Kelley

“I was born out here at 1202 E,” Hilton Kelley said, pointing to one building among the rows and rows of identical structures at Carver Terrace. “I was born by a midwife. I mean, literally, born out here.” The sun was blistering, but Kelley guided me around with the patience of a docent. Along the way, he paused to make sure that residents were making their arrangements for moving out, now that Carver Terrace’s demolition appeared imminent.

“Yes, yes,” said Erma Lee Smith. She assured Kelley that she was making arrangements, but she also admitted to being worried about a city council meeting scheduled for that evening. City council members would be voting on a tax credit requested by one of the contractors working on the new public housing complex. Kelley ducked into the shade of Smith’s stoop to explain to her that the vote was just a formality, a necessary and near-final step in the lengthy process that would lead to relocation. Port Arthur had already secured $20.5 million from HUD and other sources, he said. There was simply no way the city would ever risk losing that kind of cash infusion.

Smith was visibly relieved. The 80-year-old has been at Carver Terrace since 1978, living for much of that time in a building at the northwestern corner of the complex barely 20 yards from the berm on the other side of Terminal Road. She smelled gas emissions on a regular basis, she said, and spoke of one recent explosion that was close enough to rattle her windows. Every time something happened, she told me, she had trouble catching her breath. For all of the years she has lived at Carver Terrace, she has depended day and night on a respirator—what she calls her “breathing machine”—to inhale Albuterol, which eases the coughing and tightness in her chest that comes from her severe bronchitis. One of her daughters uses the same treatment, she said; another daughter and a son both have asthma. “You take a good whiff, you can smell the petroleum,” Kelley told me later. “It smells like tar all the time. When I first started coming around here and met Miss Erma Lee, I was like, ‘Dang, everybody out here has to use respiratory medication.’”

Kelley was raised in and around Carver Terrace. He managed to escape its gravity for nearly two decades, after joining the Navy and later moving to Oakland, California, where he started and ran a home maintenance and repair business. But when he returned to Port Arthur in 2000 for a Mardi Gras celebration, he was shocked by the deteriorated state of his hometown. Within a year he had moved back and founded an organization he named the Community In-Power & Development Association (CIDA). He resolved to take the fight directly to the powers that be, training citizens to measure levels of toxicity in the air, filing lawsuits against illegal polluters, and crashing shareholder meetings to protest corporate indifference.

NRDC: Communities at Risk

Al Huang

Al Huang

Director of NRDC’s environmental justice program, based in New York

Are there other Carver Terraces in our midst? How many Americans live in similar circumstances?

Sadly, it’s not at all unique. Studies demonstrate that low-income communities and communities of color host, more often than not, our most dangerous industrial sites. According to one study conducted by the United Church of Christ, of the more than 9 million people estimated to live within 1.86 miles of the nation’s 413 commercial hazardous waste facilities, more than 5.1 million of them are people of color—and keep in mind that these people often live in neighborhoods with more than one facility. So more than half of the people living in these host communities are people of color.

But do the people living in these communities derive any benefits from the industries next door to them?

Poverty rates in these neighborhoods are typically 1.5 times greater than they are elsewhere. Many promises get made when new industrial sites or hazardous waste facilities are being proposed: jobs, new amenities for the community, sometimes even direct infusions of cash. These promises almost always fall short of a community’s needs or expectations. More significantly, they can never outweigh the short- and long-term health costs imposed on residents in the places they live, work, play, and pray. Then there’s the fact that someone who happens to live near and work in a hazardous facility is essentially being exposed to toxic chemicals 24 hours a day.

How does NRDC help ensure that today’s vulnerable communities aren’t turned into tomorrow’s “sacrifice zones”?

Litigation can be a powerful tool for obtaining remedies that preserve the health of communities. NRDC works directly with neighborhoods facing unjust environmental threats by representing them in litigation, when appropriate, and by providing technical assistance to help them understand those threats. We utilize existing laws designed to prevent the release of toxic chemicals or to make sure that any released chemicals are properly cleaned up so that these places are made safer for current and future residents. Litigation by itself isn’t a panacea, however; it’s most effective when linked to community organizing and advocacy. In the best case, successful litigation eliminates the immediate environmental threat while galvanizing residents so that they can better deal with future threats.

Kelley has scored some major victories. In 2003 he succeeded in getting the Texas Commission on Environmental Equality to block a permit for a project at Premcor (the predecessor to Valero), which would have added 525 tons of emissions into the air. He drew national attention to a massive unpermitted release—more than 125 tons of toxic chemicals—from the Motiva plant in that same year, forcing the commission to take action. And in 2008 he persuaded the EPA not to grant the hazardous-waste-management company Veolia a special permit to incinerate 20,000 tons of liquid PCBs imported from its sister company in Monterey, Mexico. In honor of his efforts, Kelley was awarded the Goldman Environmental Prize in 2011 and even met with President Obama at the White House.

But Kelley has also encountered fierce opposition. At one 2003 meeting between CIDA and Premcor executives in the Beaumont offices of U.S. Representative Nick Lampson, a Democrat, the congressman floated the idea of organizing a town hall gathering so corporate leaders might better hear the concerns of the people living in and around Carver Terrace. According to Kelley, the Premcor plant manager in attendance agreed—but not before saying that he didn’t want “to go into a situation where people are going to be acting like a bunch of monkeys.” In 2007 Kelley led a citizens’ lawsuit claiming that the Veolia plant, which had incinerated nearly two million gallons of VX hydrolysate (a toxic by-product created when weapons-grade nerve gas is neutralized), had no measures in place to determine if the agent had been emitted into the air. Port Arthur’s then-mayor, Oscar Ortiz, told one local newspaper that Kelley was “full of crap” and told another that Kelley was “a clown and a loser just trying to get attention for himself.”

The biggest knock on Kelley may be that bad things have kept happening in Port Arthur, whether he was talking about them or not. In 2007, four years after the major toxic-chemicals release at the Motiva plant, Carver Terrace was overwhelmed by an emissions event at the Valero facility that sent dozens of people to the hospital. Three years later, the Exxon-chartered oil tanker Eagle Otome collided with a barge, spilling 462,000 gallons of crude oil into the nearby Sabine-Neches Canal and forcing the evacuation of 136 Port Arthur residents.

But it’s not the highly publicized releases that are the greatest problem; it’s the steady, routine release of toxic chemicals that never makes the papers. An investigation conducted last year by the Environmental Integrity Project found that levels of benzene and other volatile organic compounds released from Port Arthur’s refinery stacks were actually 10 times higher than were being reported. Nonetheless, for thousands of people who grew up in the housing complexes of West Port Arthur, the place still exerts the powerful pull of home. “I can see my great-grandmother, with her flowered dress on and her parasol, walking down this middle aisle right here,” Kelley said to me as he gestured toward the long sidewalk that runs through Carver Terrace. “In a way, I’m going to really hate to see it go, because a lot of my history is here. But it should have been gone years ago. And my history is all over this town now.”

* * *

The state of Texas first became an oil powerhouse with the eruption of the Lucas gusher at the Spindletop oil field in Beaumont in 1901. Two speculators, the Gulf Refining Company and the Guffey Petroleum Company, built their refineries on the coast. (Later the two companies would merge into a single entity known as Gulf Oil.) Around the same time, the Texas Fuel Company—later known as Texaco—built its own refinery next door. Port Arthur, which had been founded a few years before as a shipping port and rail-line terminus, suddenly became the center of the American oil boom, and for decades much of the nation’s crude wound up in Gulf Coast refineries.

In the years right after World War II, the town was flooded with African American roustabouts and roughnecks drawn from all over Louisiana and East Texas. Downtown Port Arthur and the neighboring communities of West Port Arthur and Port Acres hummed with barbecue pits and seafood boils, brothels and gambling parlors, nightclubs and juke joints. By day a Louisiana transplant named Clifton Chenier drove a truck at the Gulf refinery, but at night he was the King of Zydeco at the Blue Moon Club. Touring blues acts like Big Joe Turner could sell out Bluchie’s Paradise for a week solid. Black-owned nightclubs stretched along West Gulfway and up and down Houston Avenue, many boasting 24-hour bar service.

In late 1953 a labor strike against city merchants was portrayed by anti-labor interests as a joint effort by Communists and African Americans to take over the city. One propaganda pamphlet, distributed statewide, pictured white women together on the picket lines with black men, its caption warning: “They drink from the same bottles and smoke the same cigarets.” The following year the U.S. Supreme Court handed down its ruling in Brown v. Board of Education, forcing the integration of public schools and signaling the end of formal segregation across the South. The result of these back-to-back events was slow but steady white flight from Port Arthur to the neighboring suburbs.

Port Arthur's downtown

Then, in the late 1960s, the oil boom began to wane. The city, already struggling mightily, couldn’t withstand the damage. Everyone who could move out of Port Arthur did—and fast. They left behind a ghost town, abandoned and boarded up, hurricane-lashed and rotting from the inside. The once-grand Sabine Hotel, built in the 1920s and for many years the city’s tallest building, is today a 10-story brick skeleton, most of its windows blown out and its ground floor enclosed by a plywood barricade promising (as it has for years, I’m told) that “Port Arthur’s Redevelopment Begins Here.” The doors to Port Arthur Savings, with its soaring marble columns and brass handrails, are chained. The old Federal Building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, but its tall, arched windows are boarded all the way to their keystones. The stucco facade of the World Trade Building is peeling off like old wallpaper—and where slabs of concrete and rebar have crashed onto the street, the police have merely cordoned off the area with yellow tape. The city has looked this way for so long now that few seem to notice.

Port Arthur city councilWhen residents from Port Arthur’s public housing complexes, including Erma Lee Smith, arrived at the city council chambers on the evening of June 25, along with executives from the Port Arthur Housing Authority, many of them wore yellow T-shirts emblazoned with the slogan “Vote Yes for Better Housing.” They filled the front rows, expectantly awaiting the vote Hilton Kelley had said would mark one of the last bureaucratic hurdles in the path of their deliverance from Carver Terrace.

They were in for a surprise. As soon as the tax-credit issue arose, Councilmember Raymond Scott Jr., representing the district where the new public housing complex is to be erected, voiced his objection. Twenty-six percent of his constituents who lived near the proposed site, he said, had signed a petition in opposition. His own opposition, he suggested, stemmed from the fact that the housing project’s developer had asked the city for a $15,000 tax credit.

Never mind that the city of Port Arthur already has at least 23 different industrial tax agreements with local refineries and chemical plants. Never mind that, by almost any accounting, the city has delayed or set aside the collection of tens of millions of dollars in tax revenue from the petroleum industry. Motiva, to cite just one example, began work on a $3.5 billion expansion of its facilities in 2007, but didn’t pay additional taxes on the expansion until 2010. According to Kelley, that abatement cost Port Arthur schools $3.6 million per year. In return, Motiva donated to each school in the district $1,000—a negligible sum, Kelley notes, but enough to buy executives photo ops with local schoolchildren. (“There are always pictures in the news with a little child pointing to a test tube,” Kelley said at the time. “The refinery guy is standing over him with a smile, like he sponsored this whole project.”) Never mind that Councilman Scott’s father was once the head of the local chapter of the NAACP, or that Rev. Raymond Scott Avenue runs near Carver Terrace and the old Lincoln High School—the last high school in West Port Arthur, now shuttered for lack of funds.

Never mind any of that. The councilman declared that “this city cannot afford to continue giving tax credits,” and because of his objection, the resolution was—for the moment, at least—tabled. No near-final hurdles would be cleared that night. The people in the yellow T-shirts stormed out of the chambers.

Erma Lee SmithOutside, Erma Lee Smith was in no mood to talk. She clung to the handrail at the foot of the steps and climbed into a transport van as soon as it arrived. But Kelley was openly furious. A Port Arthur city councilman (and an African American one, at that), someone whose sympathies with the residents of Carver Terrace should have been beyond doubt, had just publicly made the argument that denying a $15,000 tax credit was more important than ensuring public health. It is one thing to be mistreated by the oil industry and its powerful allies. It’s quite another thing, Kelley said sadly, when “we do it to our own damn selves.”

“People look at us as expendable,” he continued. “They say, ‘Statistically speaking, only a small minority of people are going to be impacted.’ But the people they’re talking about are Port Arthurians. My town is not expendable. We’re living, breathing human beings who deserve a better quality of life than what we’re getting.”

* * *

The next day, and the day after that, and then the day after that, Erma Lee Smith refused to talk to me. She wouldn’t come to the phone when her granddaughter told her I was on the line, and she either wasn’t home or wouldn’t answer the door when I knocked. I tried for days, but apparently she was done talking.

And the embarrassing truth is this: when I stood at Miss Erma Lee’s front door and no one stirred inside, when no one even lifted a slat to peer out from behind the blinds, as much as I felt disappointed and frustrated, I also felt something else.

I felt relieved that I wouldn’t have to face her.

For the past two years, I have covered the struggles of ordinary Americans as they face off against the well-financed leviathan of the oil industry. I’ve spent days and weeks with people living along Michigan’s Kalamazoo River, people whose homes were filled with benzene fumes after an Enbridge-operated diluted-bitumen pipeline ruptured in 2010 (see "The Whistleblower"). I have gone on fruitless voyages in search of lost populations of whales devastated by the Exxon Valdez spill in Alaska. And I have spent more time than I could ever quantify with people fighting the construction of TransCanada’s Keystone XL pipeline through the Ogallala Aquifer in Nebraska, the state where I live.

But Port Arthur represents an even bigger challenge for a journalist. When you’re used to presenting versions of the classic David-versus-Goliath tale, what do you do when the Davids have become so dispirited that they’ve all but given up the fight? Today, Carver Terrace specifically—and Port Arthur more generally—are so far gone, so forsaken, that there’s almost no need for industry officials to deceive, or to issue craftily worded denials, or to vow halfheartedly to reduce their refineries’ environmental impact. The industry abides by the letter of the law, dutifully documenting thousands of emissions events, knowing that, in the end, practically no one cares.

Refinery spokespeople acknowledge that their facilities are emitting toxic chemicals. But they follow up that acknowledgment with a question: are we, as automobile drivers, willing to help offset the industry costs associated with increasing safety and reducing emissions every time we go to the pump?

We—collectively—have admitted that we’re not. So these same spokespeople don’t even bother contesting the findings of this cancer researcher or challenging the EPA’s warnings about that contamination. Their companies factor nominal fines into their operating costs and go about their business. And should any reporters come sniffing around, their hired security guards will be on the scene in minutes to take names and threaten to file reports with the Department of Homeland Security. They know better than anyone that people like me just show up for a few days, take their notes and their photographs, and then go home.

Carver Terrace

Near sundown on the last night of my stay, Kelley accompanied me out to Carver Terrace one last time. In the days that followed—despite the unfolding of more city council drama—the disputed tax credits would be approved for the new housing complex and the effort to bulldoze Carver Terrace and relocate its residents would be back on track. But on that evening, with the possibility that the order for demolition might be delayed yet again, Kelley was circumspect.

He pulled off to the side of Terminal Road, just north of Carver Terrace. He was dressed in a black pinstripe suit and patent leather shoes, but he nevertheless felt compelled to climb the height of the berm that stretches away toward the Motiva plant. He stepped up into the knee-high grass and pointed to the gas flare towering over the Valero plant to the west.

“Do you see that?” he asked. “That’s an emissions event right there.” Some kind of contaminant was burning up and drifting over the whole neighborhood. Before I could even respond, we were assaulted by a cloud of noxious air, heavy with the stench of rotten eggs.

“That’s sulfur dioxide,” he said. The chemical is toxic, but Kelley laughed at my pinched expression. “My brother and me used to make a joke of it, you know? Driving by the plant with our windows rolled down when there was a sudden release. We’d turn to each other—‘Aw, man, did you do that?’” He laughed again, then gave a half-glance back over his shoulder at Carver Terrace. A crowd of boys, most with no shirts, were dribbling and passing on the basketball court outside the project.

"My town is not expendable. We’re living, breathing human beings who deserve a better quality of life than what we’re getting.”

And all I wanted was to turn away, to be gone from there. To go home. But now that I’m back in Nebraska, I can’t stop wondering if I’ll ever really be home from Port Arthur—or if, instead, its gravity is somehow pulling all of us in. From the Gulf of Alaska to the Gulf of Mexico, the whole country has been stitched together by pipelines filled with toxic materials extracted from offshore platforms in Prudhoe Bay, from the tar sands of Alberta, from the fracking fields of North Dakota. Drilled, and spilled, and shipped overseas.

The endangered Alaskan coast is Port Arthur now. So is the benzene-laced Kalamazoo River. So is Mayflower, Arkansas, where an ExxonMobil pipeline burst earlier this year and dumped as much as 7,000 barrels of heavy crude onto the lanes and front lawns of a quiet suburban community. The Louisiana shoreline, striated with spilled oil and the dispersant chemicals used to dissolve it, and the river valleys and open plains overlying the Marcellus and Bakken shale formations where fracking rigs have appeared by the thousands: they’re Port Arthur, too. And soon, I fear, the Nebraska Sandhills near my home will be Port Arthur as well.

I understand why Erma Lee Smith has grown tired of talking. What good does it ever do? But at the same time, how can we turn away from her when Big Oil is closing in on all sides? I honestly don’t know how we even begin to fix a problem as big as Port Arthur. But at night, as I recall the burning skies over East Texas, I recall, too, the image of Hilton Kelley as he stepped higher onto the berm along Terminal Road, watching the fire from the Valero flare burn orange, heaving and darkening, watching it until it faded and was once again nothing more than ripples in the invisible air.

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image of Ted Genoways
Ted Genoways, OnEarth's editor-at-large, is the author of The Chain: Farm, Factory, and the Fate of Our Food (HarperCollins, online at, an examination of Hormel Foods and the great recession. The recipient of a 2010 Guggenheim fellowship, Genoways has contributed to Bloomberg Businessweek, Harper's, Mother Jones, Outside, and his work has appeared in the Best American Travel Writing series. He edited the Virginia Quarterly Review from 2003 to 2012, during which time the magazine won six National Magazine Awards. MORE STORIES ➔
Comments (17)
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Port Arthur,Tx.Home town of Janis Joplin.I lived across the bridge,in Bridge City twenty years ago.The pollution and smell then was unbearable.Even the water smelled like oil.And your exactly right,no one cares.Not then or now.I now live 20 miles from the gulf of Mexico in Alabama.Same here now.After the deep water horizon and millions of gallons of oil went into the gulf.It seemed like the only thing people around here cared about was getting a check from BP.I still would like to know where Green Peace or any animal rights groups were.Not good for tourism.They say the water is safe.I took my kids to the pass in Gulf Shores.We saw three dead pelicans within 30 minutes.Some tourists were burying one.They said maybe they died of natural causes.Three at a time?My family has been here over 150 years.I have spent my entire life fishing,swimming and loving our beautiful coast.No amount of money could compensate for my children not having that too.The American Indian proverb say's it best."When all the trees are gone and all the water is polluted.Maybe then we will realize,we can't eat money."
I was born and raised outside of Port Arthur, in Port Acres, and my father worked at the Jefferson Chemical company for many years. I remember well the 22 different refinery complexes in the city areas of PA, Pt Neches, Nederland, Groves and Bridge City. It brought in a lot of $$but my pop always said...'get out while you can' and I did at 18. Many years spent swimming in Taylors Bayou but the caveat of 'don't stir up the bottom mud', it was viscous, multi-hued and stank to high heaven! My first fire fight in 'Nam had nothing on the night sky back home, flares, flames reaching to the sky, billowing and choking smoke, and the occasional tanker explosion. It was rather quiet to me. But it never felt 'safe' in the long term, and the number of deaths from my high school, for whatever reason, is astounding, refinery related, or just dangerous behavior or early death to unknown reasons? Who knows. The only ones still relatively sane and healthy are those of us who have moved away, far far away.
my father was a carpenter at the gulf refinery which later became chevron for 39 years. he died at 92 and was active and possessed of his full faculties until his death. he used to was his tools in benzene and have "snowball" fights with asbestos. he made enough money at that plant to put me thru law school at the university of texas and leave a substantial amount to help with his grandchildren's education. where do you think jobs come from? you people want environmental shutdowns of these plants. outsource more manufacturing jobs to asia then? why dont you oppose the transpacific partnership? you make it so damn hard to have any manufacturing domestically then make it so easy to relocate to a country with no environmental protection and slave labor. you want to know why no one from carver terrace works at a plant? they cant pass a drug test. before you call me a racist i'm a criminal defense attorney and i know. most whites arent any better. how did you get back to nebraska? you rode your bike i guess. well maybe you didnt -- then i guess you used a hydrocarbon as a fuel. hypocrite.
I am very glad to hear someone refute the biased comments in this article. I am born and raised in this area and my father, father in law and husband worked or work at this plant. Neither my father or father in laws death had anything to do with them working at this plant. After Hurricane Rita Mayor Ortiz came to the managers of the local plants and wanted to know why more locals were not employed instead of out of town contractors being employed. The answer was: The 15 people that showed up only 2 could pass a drug test. There is no racial or prejudice practices for employment at these area plants only rules that have to be abided by whoever is to be an employee. The majority of Carver Terrace families were relocated Miles away from any fumes or releases in housing free of mold and all known contaminants to their health. In closing, if you are going to write an article like this try to get your facts right. Or at least be a little more balanced with who you interview. Our country is going down the drain because of outsourcing jobs to countries with no labor laws or environmental controls. Think about writing an article about that!
"then i guess you used a hydrocarbon as a fuel. hypocrite." ...the fuck else are we supposed to use?
As per usual, you conservatives all miss the freaking point. The POINT is to make laws, implement regulations, and come up with time deadlines for FINDING ALTERNATIVES. DUH. But hey you're a criminal defense attorney - so you must be SMART. Too bad you MISSED THE POINT of this entire article! Just like all right-wingers. Actually - we all know you aren't missing anything... you just want MONEY at any cost to the environment, and you want it NOW, so all the Washington DC lobbyists that work for the oil industry pay off the politicians so they won't implement laws and regulations, or levy fines against the oil industry. If they did the right, and ethical thing, like Clinton tried to do back in the '90's and Bush turned around and reversed all his accomplishments, we'd already have engines that run on alternatives to oil, and air/ground/water pollution restrictions in place that would have prevented all the toxins that are killing us and causing cancer and laws that would punish the violators. But noooo, you money-grubbing right-wingers, and denialists, support the greasing of pockets in Washington to keep the poisons pouring into our environment. Who cares? As long as we have jobs and the rich get richer? Like the quote goes... when there are no trees left to filter out CO2 and produce oxygen, and no safe water left to drink or air to breathe, or safe land to plant our crops in, we'll finally realize we can't eat money.
People on that end just sell crack, and drive nice cars, and sport nice shoes, the whole while getting their handouts. They want to relocate them, but the citizens dont want them there. Property values will drop, and crime rates will soar in communities where it used to be peaceful.
And rife, you are a cocaine using maggot, who preys on the weak just like the conglomerates. You couldnt make my brothers trial because you were in jail on cocaine posession. And dont make me bring up your connection to the kkk and local biker groups. Your a piece of shit you son of a bitch. Livin on daddys money and then taking the rest from people getting out of jail. Fuck off and die Rife kimler attorney at LARGE
Got news for you...the southern half of the Keystone pipeline HAS been built to Port Arthur.. The claims of jobs and better economy was false or half truths...only construction jobs were brought in and they were short termed...only as long as needed. Any permanent jobs? Maybe 20 if that! The oil can reach the refineries now through the current pipelines Keystone already has but they don't want to mix the shale oil with normal fear that it may contaminate the "real" product. The battle is for the North half of the line from Canada to Oklahoma....but if you look at Keystone's existing piplelines, there are two already in place from the same starting to end locations...but again, they want to use this new one exclusively for the shale oil which is dirtier than pure oil...Port Arthur has sat on it's butt for decades (so has the rest of the area) depending on the refineries...yet cancer rates have risen over the years...and the white flight of working tax payers to the north of Beaumont has hurt Jefferson County (that and their wonderful "Fraud Park", the Ford Park arena built west of Beaumont on I-10 with county funds and it drains over $1 million a month in operational costs yet it is hardly used). The area used to be growing and alive but since the late 1980s, has headed down hill and the "old money" has done nothing to bring new business and real jobs to the area. They are content with the status quo as it is now. Yet, when students get out of high school or college (if they attend local Lamar University or it's associated sub-campuses), they are gone from the area, leaving the poor minorities and even poor caucasians who cannot afford to leave (either no money or too old to look for another job somewhere else). There is a lot of potential to the area, but local planners are doing nothing to help (the announcement of a bread company opening in Beaumont brought so much praise on Facebook on Beaumont based web sites, you would think Disney had arrived! Most folks are betting the new company will close within a year or so).
Sir, your reply to this article was so SPOT ON !!! I'm from there and everything you stated is correct, with the exception of this: The kids from "old money" go to UT and never come back, so the money ultimately leaves the area too. And the arthor of this article fails to mention that H. Kelly was working for 2 attorneys in Houston, looking for a way to sue the Refineries. So he really was'nt an advocate for the people, he was just a "Front Man looking f or some Class Action Lawsuits. Just drumming up business for his employers.
As a former Port Arthur resident, I find this article insulting and inaccurate. One would expect a higher level of integrity for something claiming to be journalism but this is purely propaganda against the pipeline that will sustain Port Arthur's economy.
You did say "FORMER PORT ARTHUR RESIDENT". I am a present resident and have been for over 71 years. I never worked in the refineries but like second hand smoke from a tobacco smoker, The toxins affect everyone in the area, so the original post is not accurate and neither is yours. The problem is that the 'Old money" of Jefferson County has been leaving Jefferson county since the late 70's and early 80's. Their kids who mostly go to UT, don't come back, but take their degree and find good paying jobs in major cities. Those who attend LU do the same thing, so all that money leaves. However, the main point is that Hilton Kelly or not, these refineries are making billions of dollars and are dropping pennies into the communities to say that they are putting money back into the community. To appease those who yell about health, they put a sorry 2 million into a community center and clinic (all on the same property). That is located on the west side of Port Arthur where there is a 90% Black residence. The prevailing winds in Port Arthur are from the Southwest, which hardly touch the west side. It is a wind out of the west and north that puts this area in the path of the toxic releases. The neighborhoods to the north and north east are the ones that are most constantly being recipient of the toxins. What needs to be understood is that Port Arthur is the Nations dumping grounds simply because it is predominantly prro blacks that live here. White flight of the 70's and 80's produced that fact. Not only are the people of Port Arthur faced with the refineries toxic waste, Vieola is a waste disposal plant in Port Arthur, and they process toxic waste from all over the world as most recently, a ship load of toxins from Syria just docked and unloaded some of the Syrian chemical weapons for disposal. Also, just two days ago, Chevron-Phillips had a fire and explosion where several were injured and is now flaring toxins into the atmosphere. To top that off, there is still another company wanting 100% tax abatement to build still another refinery within the city limits that will take methane (natural gas), and convert it to Methane, and then convert the methane into Ethanol for gasoline. Ant the site for this plant is less than 2000 feet from the reservoir where the city water plant is located. Also, it will be located across the highway from one of the largest petrochemical plant (Motiva) in the USA. and a predominantly black community is just on the other side of the water treatment plane which is also across the highway from Motiva. You talk like you are experiencing this when in fact, you don't presently live here. Come back and live in this filth and then make your speech...
The west side is a slum. Is it fair to pollute the people there? The answer is no. But I do have to say that there should be no public housing there either. Just another excuse to not work, sell crack, and never get off their lazy asses. And ive been on that side of town before. Its rotting because people there are poor, but also because they dont care to clean their yards, paint their houses, or do anything to better their community. Its all rap deals, and basketball dreams.
An award for Social Justice? the left wing religion! Look, I live in this community and spend a great deal of my time fishing the waters of this three eyed monsters have been found yet. The muck at the bottom of the water is a result more of the decaying march material, not from the plants. Do I believe for a second that the plants are harmless...not on your life, but they are necessary for the lively hood of our NATION. You so called educated lefties out there with your global warming, social justice agendas have drank your own Kool Aide! Nothing in life is fair, except we all live and die. Please stop patting yourselves on the back and handing out really do look stupid!
Thank you all for your realistic views of Port Arthur. I was considering moving to Port Arthur when I retire but now I am crossing it off my list. I currently live in Northern California and wanted to move within a reasonable driving distance to my sister who lives in Louisiana. I want to move to a small town but I'm not willing to live in a sewer.
Right on john bob
I live in port neches and spent my first 21 years living in port arthur. I now work for a tugboat company and I actually hate it. I love my job, but the amount of pollution I see on a day to day basis is utterly ridiculous. But there isnt much work in this area. So you just take a deep breath, go to work, and hope you live long enough to see your children grow old. Hopefully I never develop cancer...